PARIS — “We all started off envisioning ourselves as a boy band,” Heron Preston reported.
He, Virgil Abloh and Matthew Williams: They were younger, hungry and marketing and advertising-savvy, performing guiding the scenes — for Kanye, for Nike — and ricocheting all around the periphery of fashion and tunes in the hazy times of the 2010s.
Beneath the collective label Been Trill, they were boy manufacturer as significantly as boy band, D.J.ing and throwing parties but also generating merch for individuals hip ample to get the joke. First they bought T-shirts by themselves, then by department outlets angling for a piece of their cool, then lastly at the teenager retailer PacSun.
Now it is 2019. All a few are on the official calendar of Paris Style Week. This is the way the guard variations: Abruptly, you seem up and the periphery is at the centre.
Now here is Mr. Preston, who made the leap on to the Paris schedule on Tuesday. He staged a Transportation Safety Administration fantasy, comprehensive with bag scanners and steel detectors, as a result of which the versions sailed in their parachute-cloth greatest.
Huge screens alternated photos pulled from the T.S.A.’s Instagram page with a stay feed of visitors entering the present. Seem closely, and you may have caught Mr. Abloh, whose Off-White show was scheduled Wednesday, or Gunna, a subsequent-huge-point rapper who popped backstage just after the present. Will Welch, the freshly ascended editor of GQ journal, was entrance row. GQ has experienced its skinny-tie period. Now it has Mr. Welch, with tattooed arms and tie-dyed socks. Thus does the page switch.
Mr. Preston, right after the present, compared the trio’s arrival to that of the Japanese designers, who came to Paris in the 1980s to display collections and adjusted the system of manner: Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons.
It was a daring comparison, 1 that Mr. Preston, with his chore coats and ripstop pants, paramilitary vests and barbed wire necklaces, doesn’t yet reside up to. His selection had as well couple surprises at last in its moment, not forward of it. But as the Japanese fomented a motion — and its individual military of acolytes, black-clad “crows” as they were being termed at the time, who lined up at their reveals — so have Mr. Preston, Mr. Williams and Mr. Abloh.
There is no denying the variety of streetwear this cohort has been creating considering that the days of Been Trill has stormed the citadel here, and seeped into labels significantly outside of their individual. So significantly so, Mr. Preston reported backstage, that a enthusiast had complained to him that streetwear’s ascendance had ruined it.
“Maybe it essential to be ruined to get a new rebirth,” he said. “Maybe this is the upcoming chapter. Now that we’re on this phase, we can produce the history in a new way.”